Restored 19th-century country inn, near downtown, walking distance to waterfront & shops. Beautifully decorated rooms with high-post or brass beds. Candlelight dinners 6-8 pm (reservations required). Whale watching arranged. 11 guest rooms, pvt baths, CBTV; full breakfast included. Also 2 one-bdrm H units near the waterfront (apart from the inn). Rates STC $59 to $89 (D,Q), XP $10; O/S rates May 1-June 15, Sept 20-Oct 31. VS, MC.